I first heard about dryer balls a year or so ago, but I didn’t give them more than a passing thought.  Someone mentioned them to me a few months ago, and since Craftworks was up and running, I figured I’d look into it a bit more.  I discovered that dryer balls are very easy to make and do a wonderful job.  They reduce both the drying time and static electricity.  I haven’t used fabric softener since I started making these.  Since they last a really long time (2-3 years or 1000 loads, depending on who you ask), they’re saving me money in multiple ways.

Making these are easy, but if you’d rather, you can just pop over to Hamlin Craftworks and buy a set – that’s even easier!

I use 100% wool in my dryer balls.  I don’t stuff the middle with old socks or t-shirts like I’ve seen suggested on some sites.  The only thing I occasionally do is, if I can get a really good price on one particular wool, I’ll use that for the center and use the slightly more expensive wool for the outside.  This lets me save a little money and offer a larger selection of colors in the store.

The key is to make sure you’re using 100% wool, not a wool blend, and not superwash.  The blends and superwash wool won’t felt, which dramatically increases your chances of the ball coming unraveled in the dryer and leaving your with a tangled mess of yarn.

These are some of my favorite brands for making dryer balls.  I particularly like the Patons Wool Roving and the Wool Naturals.  KnitPicks is nice for the colors, but the thicker the yarn, the easier it is to felt.  Be aware, just as with any yarn, very dark colors may bleed during the wash cycle.

So, to make wool dryer balls.

1 – Wind the wool into a ball and secure the end.  I like to poke a crochet hook through the ball, grab the loose end, and pull it back through.  Any little tail left over, I just weave in.  I’ve found this is a particularly good way to keep the ball from unraveling.

2 – Place the balls into a nylon stocking and put a knot between each ball.  I’ve found that I can get five balls into a knee high.  Both the stocking and the knot are important because they keep the balls from felting onto your clothes or each other.  Be prepared to lose the stocking, though, as you may end up having to cut the balls out.

3 – Run the balls through multiple loads of laundry, both washing and drying.  It’s best if you can do at least one load with hot water and high heat to dry.  I’ve found that three to four loads works well for me (not to mention it gets my towels super clean).  After the last pass through the dryer, remove the balls from the stocking.  If you’re more skilled (or just luckier) than I, you might be able to untie the knots and gently pull the balls out of the stocking.  I tried that once.  Now I just cut the knots and rip the stockings.  It’s much less stressful.  The more loads you put the balls through, and particularly the more loads with hot water you use, the more the wool will felt, and the more likely it is to stick to the stocking.  It will pull apart, you just have to be patient.

I don’t make exceptionally large balls, so I use six in the dryer.  Fewer would work with most loads, but I’m lazy and don’t feel like having to look around for the extra ball or two if I do a large load of towels.  The six balls live in the dryer – when I pull the dry clothes out, I toss the balls back in so I know they’ll be there the next time I need them.